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Guest Post by Sally Rodrick
So you’re looking for a taste of Caribbean paradise in Belize. Great choice! Now you have a second decision to make, which island will you visit?
Belize is home to over 400 cayes (islands), but there are two that stand out. Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker are the country’s most popular tourist destinations.
Both islands ooze tropical vibes, with electric blue waters, palm trees swaying overhead and the pristine Belize Barrier Reef just offshore. You can’t really make a bad decision.
But each island has its own unique personality, and depending on your budget, desired vacation vibe and travel style, one is likely to suit you better than the other.
Now there is no wrong answer here. You will have an amazing vacation, no matter which caye you choose. If you’ve got the time, why not stay on both islands and make your own decision?
If you’re short on time and have to choose one, this post will help you understand the main differences between Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker. We’ll compare the two islands in a number of categories, like accommodation, activities, dining and nightlife to aid your decision, and answer the tough question – Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye?
The basics
Ambergris Caye
Ambergris Caye has always held the crown of Belize’s most popular tourist destination. It receives the highest number of arrivals each year.
It’s sometimes referred to as San Pedro, which is the name of the only town on the island.
The island is the largest of all the cayes in both size and population. Spanning over 25 miles (40 km) in length, Ambergris has a population approaching 20,000 people. Most aren’t originally from the island, with a large number of North American expats, and Belizeans that have relocated from the mainland.
Ambergris is the most physically developed island. There are concreted roads around San Pedro, buildings higher than three stories, and a collection of large grocery stores, gyms, and boutique stores. Don’t be expecting fancy shopping malls, but the entire feel of the island is a bit more upscale, slightly more international and polished.
Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker closely follows Ambergris Caye in tourist arrivals, and it has consistently grown in popularity over the last few decades.
What most people don’t know about Caye Caulker is that it is actually two islands. Legend has it that a hurricane split the island in two in the sixties, but I think there was some local intervention to create ‘The Split’, a deep channel that allows boat access between the north and south islands.
Although there are two islands, almost all tourism activity centres around the south island, and if you said ‘Caye Caulker’ this is what people would think of. The island is just 5 miles (8 km) long, and the main village only spreads for about 1 mile (1.6 km).
There are just a handful of sandy streets, with no bitumen in sight. The village is clearly divided into Front Street, Middle Street and Back Street. Simple, hey?
Although a few new multi-storey hotels are going up around the island, the streetscape is predominantly lowline clapboard Caribbean-style buildings painted in a rainbow of colours.
Vibe of the island
Ambergris Caye
Given its higher level of development and higher visitor numbers, Ambergris Caye has a more polished, fancy vibe.
The typical visitor is generally slightly older, and usually American. This is also a popular destination for families with kids.
Due to the clientele, things are generally more expensive in San Pedro.
That’s not to say you won’t enjoy the Belizean Caribbean vibe, but Ambergris Caye is a place where you would get changed into a nicer dress for the evening.
Caye Caulker
The unofficial motto of Caye Caulker is ‘go slow’. Seriously, that’s the saying of the island and you’ll see it on handpainted signs around the village, and the locals will constantly remind you of it.
The vibe of Caye Caulker really is slower. It’s laidback, easy going with a more local feel. Yes, it is very popular with tourists, but it feels like the industry has integrated a bit better with local life, rather than existing next to it.
The island attracts a younger, more international crowd with visitors arriving from all over the world. You will read that Caye Caulker is a backpacker destination, and while this is partly true, it is not the island’s only identity, and you shouldn’t be put off if you’re not a backpacker.
There aren’t huge parties or anything like that, it’s just a less pretentious, more authentic feel.
Getting there and around
Ambergris Caye
You can reach San Pedro via air or water taxi.
From the international airport in Belize City, it’s a short 20-minute flight. Local airlines Tropic Air and Maya Island Air have multiple departures each day and both are reputable.
The more affordable (and more sustainable) alternative is to take the water taxi. Departing from Belize City, the trip takes around 1.5 hours. Boats first stop at Caye Caulker before continuing on to Ambergris.
Although San Pedro is the only town on the island, there are accommodations, beaches and restaurants spread all over. As a result, the most common way to get around is via a golf cart.
The paved roads can become jammed with golf carts at peak periods, and they can be quite noisy zooming around town.
There are some cars on the island. It’s not possible to rent one as a tourist, but you will see taxis, trucks and local cars, which kind of detracts from the laidback feel.
Caye Caulker
You’ve got the same options for travelling to Caye Caulker.
The flight is only 10 minutes, and the same airlines run the route. The water taxi trip from Belize City is slightly shorter, around 1 hour.
When you get off the ferry at the island’s dock, you’ll find a few golf carts lined up to ferry tourists with luggage to their accommodation.
Besides that, the main form of transport on the island is on foot or bicycle. Cruising around the sandy streets is so much fun, and it helps to keep the island quiet and chill.
You can easily walk around anywhere in the main village, and even if your accommodation is a little further from the centre, a bicycle should suffice.
Accommodation
Ambergris Caye
Although there is a wide variety of accommodations available on Ambergris Caye, they do trend towards more luxury resorts.
If you’re looking for a typical vacation getaway, at a higher-end property, this island will be right for you.
Prices overall are more expensive on this island, even if you’re looking at the lower end of the scale. If you’re on a very tight budget, you’ll have trouble finding something suitable on Ambergris Caye.
Some of the best-rated options in Ambergris Caye are:
Caye Caulker
There is still a good range of accommodations on Caye Caulker for all styles and budgets, but they have a distinctly local flavour.
You can find hostels, guesthouses, and self-contained cabanas with just a handful of boutique hotels. A swimming pool is an exception, not a rule, but then again, do you really need one when you have the Caribbean Sea just steps away?
Whatever scale of accommodation you’re looking for, it will be cheaper on Caye Caulker.
Some of the best-rated options in Caye Caulker are:
- Go Slow Hostel
- Seaside Cabanas
- Colinda Cabanas
- Weezie’s Oceanfront Hotel
- Island Magic Beach Resort
Beaches and swimming spots
Ambergris Caye
It might be surprising to you that the number of actual sandy beaches are limited on both islands. The cayes are perched right on the edge of the barrier reef, and there are gorgeous waters to swim in, but not necessarily, wide open beaches.
Ambergris Caye’s not-so-secret Secret Beach is the best option if you’re adamant about laying down a towel and walking into the water.
Otherwise, there are plenty of swimming spots all over the island, with lots of over-the-water restaurants and bars and docks where you can jump into the electric blue Caribbean waters. Palapa Bar is one great spot to check out.
Caye Caulker
The situation with beaches is pretty similar on Caye Caulker.
There was a large swathe of sand on the less popular north island at Northside Beach Club, however this is temporarily closed. I suspect it will reopen in the future, as it is a gorgeous beach, one of the best in Belize!
Fear not, The Split is the place for swimming on Caye Caulker. This deep channel divides the north and south islands and is the perfect spot to jump into the warm, calm waters.
While you can jump off the rock wall anywhere you like, the popular beach bar The Lazy Lizard has a fun diving platform that you can climb up for a more thrilling entry! They also have easy access stairs, and some stools and palapas in the water.
Activities
Ambergris Caye
The great news is that both islands have access to virtually the same activities. All the bucket list adventures for your Belize holiday can be done from either island.
Whether that’s flying over the Great Blue Hole, snorkelling at the Hol Chan Marine Reserve or going scuba diving, all these activities can be organised from either island.
Ambergris Caye is closer to the reef, in particular the Hol Chan Marine Reserve section, so it’s a slightly shorter boat trip to the snorkel sites.
Besides visiting Secret Beach, you can explore the island by golf cart, take a food tour or simply relax in a hammock or at a beach bar.
Caye Caulker
The big ticket activities on Caye Caulker are the same as Ambergris.
Snorkelling at Hol Chan Marine Reserve is an unforgettable experience. A true water wonderland, in one day you could swim alongside turtles, rays, sharks and even manatees! The colour of the water is out of this world too.
If you haven’t already rented a bike, one of the best ways to spend a day in Caye Caulker is to explore the far reaches of the island on two wheels. There are so many gorgeous patches of sand, glimpses of the vibrant blue water down alleyways, colourful buildings, murals and handpainted art all over the place.
Don’t forget to head to the west side of the island for fantastic sunsets each night, and see the giant stingrays at the Iguana Reef Inn.
Restaurants
Ambergris Caye
To cater to the clientele, there are quite a lot of fancy and expensive restaurants in San Pedro.
Don’t get me wrong, you can still find great local Belizean food, like fry jacks, rice and beans and beachfront barbeques.
But there are quite a few fancy restaurants with fine dining, international cuisine and romantic settings. Expect candles on the table kind of vibes, with good service. You’d probably want to at least throw on a collared shirt or dress for dinner here.
Neither island, or anywhere in Belize for that matter, has any fast food chains. No McDonalds, no KFC, no Starbucks, it’s wonderful.
Truck Stop is a fun laidback option, a food truck-style outdoor park with shipping containers and a variety of cuisines on offer. For a special dining experience, try Mambo or Palmilla.
Caye Caulker
As with most things on Caye Caulker, dining is a more laid-back affair.
That doesn’t mean the quality of the food is any less, and there is still a good range of international options, but restaurants in Caye Caulker are typical local spots, where bare feet and wet hair are acceptable.
If you’re on a tight budget, you can find hole-in-the-wall places serving cheap local snacks like fry jacks, salbutes or panuchos. Don’t miss Errolyn’s House of Fry Jacks.
Seafood is fresh and in abundance, and you find fresh lobsters grilling on beachfront barbeques on Front Street. Kareem’s Unbelizable BBQ is a popular spot.
For an authentic local experience, visit Wish Willy, which is like having dinner at a local’s house, because you’re literally having dinner at a local’s house in his backyard!
Nightlife
Ambergris Caye
This is one of the most stark differences when comparing Ambergris Caye vs Caye Caulker. Ambergris Caye has a vibrant nightlife, whereas Caye Caulker does not.
There are a ton of more relaxed local bars and beachside lounges, but come midnight, the nightclubs open in San Pedro and the real party begins.
The girls are dressed to the nines and the music pumps until 3 or 4 in the morning. If you want to party, Ambergris Caye is the undisputable winner in this category.
Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker’s nightlife is much more relaxed. That doesn’t mean you can’t find a party if you want it, but you’ll most likely be at a local sports bar wearing flip-flops, instead of dolled up at a pretentious club.
The island has more ‘day life’, with good tunes, cold Belikins and strong rum punches served up at the waterfront bars while the sun is still shining. The Lazy Lizard and Sip ‘n’ Dip are great during the day, but usually quiet down once the sun goes down.
We visited Caye Caulker on New Year’s Eve, arguably the biggest party of the year, and we were heading to bed by the very reasonable hour of 2 am, after searching for anywhere still open for a late-night snack! (Hint: if you’re having a late one After Hours Munchies is the only place open!).
Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye: Final thoughts
As you can see, there’s no wrong choice when deciding between Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye. Both islands offer an amazing holiday experience to visitors, with all the elements of a tropical Caribbean paradise!
If you only have the time to stay on one island, try to allocate a day to visit the other. The ferry ride is only 30 minutes, and you’ll know which island suits you best for your next visit!
About the Author
Sally fell in love with Latin America after extensive travels in the region. She aims to help travellers discover the magic of Latin America through detailed guides to inspire and equip them with the knowledge they need to plan their own epic adventures in this incredible part of the world.
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Raised as a third culture kid living in South America and Europe, Annick caught the travel bug early. As an empty-nester, Annick enjoys sharing her tips for traveling for those with champagne taste and beer budgets.